Keep driving the pin upward with the hammer until it comes out. Score the caulking between molding and wall in order to break the seal. With a pry bar and hammer, carefully remove molding.
Pry away the doorjamb, framing, and the threshold. Now you can scrape away the old caulking. Create rough opening around frame. You need to measure the width between the side jambs, the head jamb to the seal under the old threshold, as well as the thickness of the wall. The rough opening needs to be a minimum of 1 inch 2. If needed, use shims or a beveled board to level it.
If the door needs to clear an especially high floor, like a thick carpet, a spacer board may be needed. Make sure everything is level. While you're working you should periodically check with your leveler that everything is staying level. If things aren't level you might end up with a tilted door or frame, which will cause problems later on.
Part 2. Dry-fit the new door. This means that you place the door where it's going to be set to make sure that everything is going to fit properly.
If you find any problems at this stage like the door doesn't fit, things aren't even then you'll need to deal with those first. Apply caulk. Apply two thick beads of caulk, along the front and rear edges of the subsill, where the sill will be placed. Continue applying the caulk approximately 2 inches 5. Insert door into opening. Place the bottom of the door first, tilting the top out toward you, then slide the door into place. It's best to work from the outside of the house when you're inserting the door into the opening.
You may want to enlist a friend to help you lift and place the door depending on its weight. Be sure that the door is centered in the opening, and assure that the frame fits snugly into place at the bottom of the opening. Shim the rest of the door-frame. Place shims on the hinge side of the door, behind any points where hinges will be attached to the door frame. The door will be secured to the rough opening in these areas later.
Secure door temporarily. After you've made all of the necessary adjustments, secure the door temporarily, using 16d finishing nails. Lightly drive the nails through the hinge jamb, near where the hinges will be installed.
Don't put the nails all the way in. Part 3. Test the swing of the door. It should open and close smoothly. Sometimes pre-hung doors will have an adjustable sill, which can be useful it the door isn't quite adjusted perfectly. You want to make sure that the door doesn't scrap the floor inside your house. If necessary, make adjustments by moving the jamb in or out, at the top or the bottom.
Secure door-jambs. Drive 3 inch 7. Secure the remaining jambs all the way around the door, always driving the screws or nails whatever is suggested by the manufacturer through the shims. Verify occasionally that the door assembly is remaining properly adjusted. Install the lock strike, putting the screws through the shim. Install insulation. Finish the job by installing loosely packed, fiberglass insulation around the edges of the door frame.
Install interior trim, following the manufacturer's instructions. Apply paintable caulk along all of the joints and intersections of the trim and the brick-mold. Wear gloves, because you do not want to get caulk on your hands. Ryaan Tuttle Home Improvement Specialist. Ryaan Tuttle. There are a lot of different styles of weatherproofing you can use for a door. Some go on the outside of the door.
Some require a special tool that you use to cut a groove around the door slab so you can push a rubber gasket into it that goes all the way around the door. You can always add threshold weather stripping as well if you have a draft coming under the door. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 1. Install hinge shims to correct it. They install under the hinge, just loosen the screws and insert.
Not Helpful 3 Helpful 9. Is a metal flashing required under an exterior replacement pre-hung door threshold? Yes, some type of flash should be installed. You can buy sill pan kitsch, or use metal flashing. Just follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 4. A door should be able to swing around to degrees. To avoid damage to the wall, use door stoppers. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 6.
Yes, if the frame installed allows it to do so and there is adequate space for the door to swing open freely. Not Helpful 2 Helpful Buy a replacement door to fit the opening or frame up the opening to fit the door you have. Not Helpful 6 Helpful If the floor is notched or not level, get a 2x8 or similar board to level it. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 3.
In my experience, backwards is always best as it lets less of a draft through. Not Helpful 6 Helpful 4. That's going to depend entirely on what's wrong with the door.
If you have a specific problem, try looking up that specific issue to find instructions on correcting it. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 3. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. If you're a beginner with this sort of project it's best to get a pre-hung door so you can deal with door and frame at the same time. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. The step of adding the caulk is very important. Some people skip this step, but it is vital for preventing leakage in the future.
When securing the jambs, be careful not to overly tighten the screws. This will cause the door to fall out of alignment. Helpful 6 Not Helpful 5. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts.
Related Articles. Article Summary. Author Info Last Updated: July 1, Part 1. Remove the old door and the surrounding trim, molding, and door jamb. You must remove everything covering the "rough frame" of the doorway. When installed correctly, they provide the tightest possible seal to keep out the elements.
The door jamb is usually held in place with nails, screws, and caulk. The screws shouldn't be difficult to remove, though the caulk can sometimes be a challenge to strip out.
Certain silicone-based caulks or sealants can be loosed with specialized chemical applications available at many hardware stores. Exterior molding may come off only with great difficulty; there is usually no special trick to it, just the application of leverage via a pry bar. Pry off interior trim carefully, so as not to damage the surrounding wall paint or paper. Along with a pry bar, it may be helpful to use a putty knife to get between the trim and wall with minimal damage.
Determine if the doorway is level. Use a level to measure the sill bottom , sides, and top of the frame. If it is not as it should be, you may need to add wood around the frame to make it level. If it is exposed to weather, it is the most likely portion to be warped or rotted.
In this case, remove the existing materials and replace them with like-sized boards. Measure the doorway. You must measure the height, width, and depth in order to know the precise size you must have for the door you will purchase.
Do not underestimate the importance of measuring the depth. If the distance between the interior and exterior walls is great but the depth of door jamb on the new door you purchase is small, you will have to add jamb extensions.
This shouldn't be too much of a problem unless the distance you have to make up is especially large, but it is something to be aware of. Purchase the necessary materials and tools.
Aside from the pre-hung door, there are a few other things you will need: Wooden shims to hold the new door in place as you attach it to the frame. Screws or nails to secure the door in place. Make sure the nails or screws you select are of an appropriate length for the jamb and frame you will be nailing through. An electric drill set to pre-drill any holes and drive in the screws that will attach the door. Caulk or other form of exterior sealant to prevent leaks around the edges of the jamb. A drip cap and sill pan optional , to protect the upper and lower portions of any doorway that be exposed directly to the elements.
Part 2. Pre-caulk the hard to reach areas inside the frame of the door. After you have the door in place you will no longer have access to these areas. In particular, look for any remaining uneven spots that can be filled in to prevent air leaks or the collection of water. Especially focus on the sill area. The caulk will dry slowly, so it should still be pliable when you fit the new door into place. Set the door in place.
0コメント