All experienced travelers of remote areas, regardless of wealth, position, or power, have a stash of toilet paper somewhere. We pack out used paper other than what is buried in another gallon sized plastic bag - we also place other accumulated trash in the same bag and we have been known to leave an area a little cleaner than we found it, a common practice among travelers as well as to collect and leave more firewood, if appropriate.
Whenever we pass through a town or village we dump the trash in a receptacle but sometimes it may be three of four days between towns or trash can availability. We may or may not keep the plastic container bag, depending on bag wear or bag contents. Always have local small coinage. We used to be bothered by paying for toilet use, but now we appreciate that a facility exists at all and that it is clean and has paper.
Other sources of Vitamin D are fortified milk, orange juice, multi-vitamin pills, or Vitamin D pill. In over 2,,, applications of DEET, there have been just over 30 reported skin irritant reactions rash like. For some people, the knife must also have a cork screw! Buy something at the airport or port. So far, nothing stolen from on the body. Note: Internet printed maps, typically, are not Waterproof and will usually run if they get wet. Copy the Itineraries Summary: - For each suitcase or shipped item like a bicycle or wine , briefcase, carry-on - For neighbor, relative, peers, employer, office staff, as appropriate - Keep Original Itinerary for yourself.
Carry at all times on your person, usually in a pocket or handlebar bag. Detailed: - One for the touring group. Otherwise, one will spend at least one week going in and out of consulates, embassies, photo studios, banks, hotels, Lesson: Click on Bike Computer link to read about an interesting learning lesson.
Develop this habit! This affects what tools I carry, BUT Toolkit Bag: Avoid too small a carry bag - Long ago, I bought some nearly waterproof nylon small front handlebar bags that are about 4 inches round in diameter and 8 or 9 inches wide with a zipper opening. They hang from the rear seat 1 each for each of my bikes.
These serve well as Tool Kit Bags. Storage Suggestions: - For the most part, most of the tools in the following list fit in the Toolkit Bag. I may have the knife in a cargo shorts pocket when really in the back woods said the Eagle Scout - Be Prepared. Group the small items together in a plastic zipper bag, more to keep from them clean and from banging into other items than for any other reason then store in the seal bag, then store in the front right pannier. It is OK to use the rear right pannier; somewhere along the way I learned to keep small heavy things up front like cooking gear, food and bulky or light things in the rear clothing, sleeping bags.
I, personally, do not like to mix my personal tools with group tools as the group tools may belong to the Guide Organization but I still store the tools in the same pannier.
Our's must also have a cork screw. Most outdoors people would not ever be absent from a knife on their person. Many riders relocate a knife from bag storage to pocket storage as soon as they stop to set up camp.
The more remote one is biking, the more one should have a knife on their person. We narrowed the mouth, laterally, a little bit with a bench grinder. There are at least two different kinds of tongue and groove pliers, one is very heavy, thick, and heavy duty avoid this one , the other is light duty, lighter in weight, and actually cheap looking and it works great for bikes.
They allow a bike to be disconnected into two major frame pieces for shipping or transport in a confined space like a car trunk. Experience: Sun Screen works as an oil substitute in an emergency. Experience: For Oil Bottles with plastic tubes which is the best application tool : Cut the plastic tube into 1.
Experience: Any oil is better than no oil! On long tours, some people like Ivan Viehoff suggest using heavy weight oil like 80 or 90 weight Gear Oil. We had a self sticking patch that would not stick, period. The repair held up. We think that, both, warming the patch and using Rubber Cement were important to a working solution. The shard could not be grasped in a manner to remove it from the tire in its entirety. The shard could not be pushed out from the inside of the tire.
We finally used pliers for grasping and the squeezing motion of the pliers crushed the glass from the size of a mini chocolate chip to the size of grains of sand. We could then brush out most of the grains. Usage: Any time that Rubber Cement is to be used. Make any use of Rubber Cement the option after self sticking patches.
Notes: - Always find and remove the offending hole causing object. Often, just buffing the area is sufficient cleaning. Buffing helps the patch grip the tube better and oil or water ruin the grip capability.
Buff lightly, with small piece of fine type sandpaper, an area just slightly bigger than the patch surface area. Metal scrapers must be handled very carefully. If used too vigorously, metal scrapers may weaken or damage the inner tube. If done correctly, Glue is reported to be better, however gluing requires a certain finesse and skill and most of the time the gluing process is performed incorrectly by many people See Rubber Cement below.
Adhesive Patches : - Patches sold in bike shops seem to be fresher than patches sold in slow turnover department stores. Rubber Cement : - When glue is required, the proper method is to apply a very small amount, spread thinly with clean finger or clean smooth stick, spread to a size only slightly wider than the patch, spread glue evenly and keep rubbing until the glue is very tacky.
If the glue is not tacky in a minutes amount of time, too much glue was applied. If it is not obvious, use a soft cloth drag test or tissue, or toilet paper or Panty Hose on the inside of the tire. Often, the location is obvious by sound or object. Be careful about over filling if the tube has already been patched as patches do not stretch as well as tubes; too much tube air fill may undo a tube patch.
No sound or air feel? Use soapy water applied with a damp applicator will bubble up at the point of the leak. Baby wipes work too. No soap? Wet some toilet paper with drinking water and drag it slowly over the tube. Listen for the slight hiss of the leak. No more finger drag tests, no more lick tests.
Use a clean rag, cotton ball, or a small wad of toilet paper on the inside of the tire to snag on the offending object. Then hunt the same distance from the stem to find the tube hole. If No water available, then Wet the tube with spit on applicator handy wipe, corner of rag, or such.
Do Not touch applicator to mouth. Dispose of or sanitize the applicator, handle with caution, keep in sealed plastic bag in mean time. Check the tire at the spot of the inner tube puncture for sharp objects, outside and inside.
No Leak, No Object. Test the tire valve by placing soapy water on or in the stem. If there are bubbles or sound from the same area , then replace the tire valve. On the road, 2 or 3 short strips of duct tape may cover the spoke end s , replace at a shop as soon as practical. A pinched or twisted tube will wear unevenly and break or leak in a rather short period of time, measured in few minutes or hours.
It should be soft enough to easily push into the tire while one tire rim is between the wheel rims. The deflation and inflation process seems to help spread the tube more evenly inside the tire. In the absence of a valve tightening tool, replace the tube for now and see if a tire shop or bike shop may tighten the valve at a later time. First, if a tire has a dot on it, for balance, the dot is supposed to be mounted opposite of the air valve.
Furthermore, if desired, the air pressure information may be highlighted with contrasting grease pencil rubbed against the lettering. Otherwise, another trick is to write the desired air pressure on the Spoke Wall top of the rim - not where the brake rubs. If the air stem is greater than one inch usually a Presta Valve , then the tube and tire must be removed together with the tube remaining inside the tire , because the air stem is too long and may otherwise become damaged during the tube removal process.
Then, fit the air stem into the wheel rim while inserting the tire and tube between the rim edges. After initial placement, screw down the stem nut partially if so equipped.
Work at keeping the stem from being pulled forward or backward. There should never be any pressure on the stem to keep it from being perfectly 90 degree straight up in the rim. Take caution to not pinch the tube with tire tools and the tire tool should not protrude more than a quarter inch or one centimeter beyond the rim toward the inside of the tire.
This is counter intuitive but place the tire onto the rim with the tools positioned just like they were for tire removal. Lock down the stem fastening nut if such exists before topping off with air. Experience: - We actually carry 2 to 3 main tire inner tubes per person and at least one for the trailer if trailer used. In this manner, the hole is easily identifiable. FACT: If there is a dot on the new tire, that dot area is the relative heaviest part of the tire balance and that dot is supposed to be mounted opposite of the air stem which is the heaviest part of the wheel balance , thus the tire dot weight and the wheel-rim valve weight counter-balancing each other, thus in theory providing a smoother ride.
Many pumps do not achieve this requirement. This issue may be more of a problem renting bikes in foreign locations both a pump issue and a tire valve issue. Not a good thing to learn 2 days from a bike shop or tire store. A Schrader tire valve is the same valve that car tires have. Note There are Presta to Schrader adapters and every biker should carry an adapter regardless of tire valve type. Caution: If the amount of air pressure loss is greater than 5 PSI a day, then start looking for another pressure loss cause.
However, in a pinch, it seems that 7, 8, and 9 speed chain link pins, master links, and chain links are interchangeable. Experience: On our mountain touring bikes only , we seem to break one chain, once, every other year, always on a burst of up-down shifting activity. We have learned to be less aggressive when touring. We have never broken a chain on a road tour but we had a chain come off the bike because we were re-using a Power Link that was old and worn from on-off use, it just opened up on a good uphill climb.
We still prefer Power Links to Pins; it just makes life easier for chain cleaning and bike shipping. The Id and the Odyssey - Sometimes the ego gets in the way. Comments: - Chains on bikes with trailers wear out twice as fast. Lesson: From Cat of BBI , When reconnecting a busted chain or new chain of proper length , lay the chain across the crank housing not the crank sprocket , thus giving more slack to better manage and control the chain, also use a handy Chain Holder home made coat hanger hook - See a couple bullets down.
A Link Bind is a connection that is so tight that the chain does not flex of bend as it rolls across the sprockets or clear air - a person may see a kink in the chain line as it moves through its path. Be careful about Identity Theft information. Start with the default derailer position first, it is possible that low gear on the derailer may now be sitting on the second or third cog also it is possible that you may have to stop yourself from using one or more of the high gears smallest sprockets due to possible chain line offset.
Know before you go. Therefore, ideally, one would carry a spare housing and wire for the longest Brake and longest Shifter lengths carry one each wire and carry a few spare "Shifter" Ferrules, and end Crimps. Note that some bikes have interim wire connectors and a spare set should be carried if such exists and some bikes have long runs of exposed wire and may benefit from rubber doughnuts. Outer Housings and Inner Wires hold up well for travel.
SO the Risk of having to replace a cable system while on tour is rather low. Risk increases slightly for mountain trail tours. DO carry a full length, slick coated, cable wire inner wire long enough to replace the longest brake and longest shift wire. CAVEATS: - There are all kinds of shapes and sizes for inner wire mounting terminals and road bikes and mountain bikes are usually different, so it is best to address this issue before one starts a long tour.
See Adjacent Images. Please read next Notes. Technology is good in this area, now. So the following is sort of a knowledge FYI for some readers. One may as well just have a few shift ferrules available. There are a few different crimp sizes but the smallest crimp that will fit the largest wire strand is usually quite sufficient. See next notes for Cable Housing Issues Universal housing is a little more expensive but endures very well. The wise traveler will replace all cable housing with Universal Housing and maybe carry a small link of extra cable housing and some extra Shifter Ferrules to butt up to existing housing for emergency repairs.
Carry a spare wire too longer than your longest length. Universal Wire has two different types of end pieces for different brake handle mount systems and even these may vary in fitting type.
Stay away from these for tours. Also, some older bikes may only get "Universal Wires" for replacement parts two different brake mounts - If this is the case, then one should cut off the undesired end before the tour. In lieu of a cable cutter, a knife may be used in urgent field situations, but it may take 30 minutes and it will definitely take the edge off a good knife. Another scenario to consider, if the housing is damaged but the wire is OK, is to use the good portion of the good cable removing the bad section of cable and to butt two ferrules together and add an additional short housing segment.
See previous Note 1 for Ferrule and Crimp Issues. Note: One good channel lock plier may do the job of most wrenches or a set of wrenches. Just as Backpacking may be for an overnight, a weekend, a week, a month or a walk about, so goes Bike Camping. Keep the First Aid Kit on the right side because during most emergency situations the cyclist will lay the bike down on the left side out of habit because the derailer needs to be protected and it is on the right hand side as one sits on a bike thus the up panniers exposed and accessible are on the right side.
Ours, must also have a cork screw! When setting up a rain fly and tent combination like pictured setup the fly first using natural settings and then setup the tent. If there are a few trees avoid them but consider using the shade. Avoid bird hangouts for poop and noise. Avoid sap dripping trees, and avoid lightning attractors.
Most experienced campers will align the entrance at the bottom of the slope versus the top of the slope or sideways to the slope. Pitch the tent s about a feet away from the water, be kind to nature.
Give good camp setup consideration to both the dining fly and the tent positions. See actual camp site picture in rain at the nearest right side above image. Some Cyclists use the waterproof tent cover as a top cover. About Tents: - Know how to set up beforehand and have set up the tent beforehand - attach any cords or lines that should normally stay with the tent.
Second lightest is a Bivy Sack. This action keeps surprise rain, hail, and critters out. We keep our bottles at the entrance, either just inside the tent or outside in the vestibule. Notes: - A heavy weight is needed to pound in tent stakes in many places with hard ground and no rocks, yet who wants to carry a heavy weight on the trail?
Thus, allowing the cyclists to get moving if or when desired. Plastic is cheap. Plastic from paint stores is thicker and more durable than what is sold at hardware stores. If you cut your own from plastic, cut two to three inches wider at each tent bottom edge. They Work - Read Instructions, See Notes: - It may be used as the ground cloth, or - It may be used as an additional insulating layer between the bags and the tent bottom, a common usage in the winter as well as in mountain climates.
The moisture from the breath will rob the bag of its insulating capabilities. Their drawback is that down bags are useless if they get wet - They take a long time days in the sun to dry out and drying requires turning, rotating, shaking and fluffing. We use float proof pack sack a clear kayak bag and have never had a wetness issue. Store in a waterproof pack sack. Perform the same rolling and air squeezing task a second time for tight rolls for better bag fit.
Hub-drive is the most common type of motors on electric bikes. Hub motors can be exceptionally powerful and efficient and are easily fitted to almost any standard bike. Direct-drive motors are more common as they are the quietest motors available. The downsides include increased hub weight, and less torque available for climbing hills. Front wheel motors are simple and elegant and are great for retrofits to regular touring bikes.
Front hubs are often preferred in the case where someone wants to use an internally geared hub such as a Rohloff 14s, Shimano Alfine or Nuvinci. The main downside to front motors is that the weight up front affects the handling of the bike. Rear hub motors are a popular choice on modern e-bikes as the additional rear wheel weight has less of an effect on bike handling.
This means that you can fit really heavy and powerful motors up to w to an e-bike to boost the performance. In order to use a rear hub motor, derailleur gearing or a Pinion gearbox must be employed. Be aware that strong rear frame dropouts are required for more powerful motors. Electric trailers can also push you along!
You can get yourself a Ridekick trailer, or you can even build your own trailer with an incorporated electric front hub. In many parts of the world, electric motors are legally restricted.
Are electric motors more powerful than w necessary? To put it simply, a w motor can provide twice the assistance, but the batteries will last half as long. But the following is a good place to start when planning a bicycle camping tour.
Your bicycle will be lighter and you can travel so much faster. Most sport, road, and hybrid bicycles will handle moderate touring with minimum gear weight. The negative side of this argument, however, is spending the money, preselecting night stays, getting reservations in advance, and forcing yourself a mileage goal no matter the road problems.
So for me, I prefer to camp as much as possible and stay in hotels or hostels occasionally. If you are traveling in remote or rural areas, you may have no other choice but to camp.
In many countries, including western North America, hotels and accommodations may be miles or more apart. Hopefully, you can find a public or private campground. Unless you find a campground in a national or state forest, you may feel like your are in a noisy road side motel. It seems like in America, camping is bringing your home comforts with you. And I have to mention all the campground and waterpark combinations that you may see.
I have stayed at private campgrounds that charge almost as much as some motels. Even in Great Britain and Europe, group or caravan camping is quite popular, and some campgrounds can seem like amusement parks where people and groups stay for weeks at a time. Here too the price can be expensive. There are exceptions though, and I have stayed in some wonderful places. Some campgrounds will have a small area dedicated for tent campers or just allow tents. A primitive campground can be a small area with a grill and table in the woods or just a farmers field with no trees or anything else.
The latter are numerous in Great Britain and Europe. Normally, simple accommodations will reflect an inexpensive price. I suggest that you get a camping guide for your location and research the options thoroughly before setting out. You find yourself in a rural or wilderness area with no recognized campground. In this case you have no alternative but to find a place to camp. First, I suggest that you ask around at local businesses, houses, and churches for ideas.
You will be surprised how many people will let you pitch a tent in a church yard, their property, behind a building, or just run you off. If you are told to get lost, again be very nice and just leave and get as far away as possible and quickly. Let me tell you that I am not advocating this style of bicycle camping, but many bicyclist have done it and still do it, including myself. I usually ride as late as possible, having eaten and collected water before stopping, and then look for a place out of sight.
I prefer a a flat location, not too low in case of rain, that is well hidden from any houses, cars, people walking, or cars parking. I use the minimum camp set up: a small tent or a hammock with a tarp, no blaring stove, and a flashlight only in the tent and only when needed. I never camp off a side dirt road. Narrow, isolated roads can be popular for people parking and partying at night. Bicycle Camping and Touring W ith a host of furious fancies W hereof I am the commander, W ith a burning spear and a horse of air T o the wilderness I wander.
B y a knight of ghosts and shadows I summoned am to tourney T en leagues beyond the wide world's end, M ethinks it is no journey. L ong-distance bicycle touring is by nature a Quixotic activity. In these days of light-speed communications, multimedia entertainment, fast, powerful, and prestigious automobiles, luxurious homes, exotic restaurants, and instant gratification, why would someone choose to pedal at slow speeds up high hills carrying a heavy load to boil rice in a small pot in the dark, insect-filled woods alone at night?
Are bicycle tourers and bikepackers driven by a masochistic self-hatred that causes them to perform painful and anachronistic pilgrimages? A ctually, long-distance, loaded, bicycle camping is one of the most pleasurable activities I have ever experienced. I generally sleep poorly at night; but in the woods on a tour, I sleep like a baby, lulled to sleep by the music of insects. In the morning, I am awakened by the cheeping of birds. I eat a snack before getting up, and then I quickly pack my sleeping bag, air mattress, tent, and other gear and get on the road.
I'm slower in the morning, having less speed but also a greater desire to stop at pleasant spots, dawdle, and enjoy. Traveling by bike allows me to stop anywhere, such as meadows, lakes especially places to swim , woods, and scenic spots, not just at the tourist traps and overlooks. My large panniers may look very heavy to the passing motorist, but I barely notice their weight; actually, the bike feels better loaded than empty; it's a lot more stable.
Somewhere near lunch, I find a small grocery and buy some bread, sandwich materials, and fruit. I find a town park or other shady spot to wait out the high mid-day sun and maybe nap. In the afternoon, my speeds are higher, and I spend less time at stops but I still usually stop fairly often, sometimes a quick dash into a grocery for bananas, sometimes a stop to pick wild berries.
My body, tanned, lean from cycling, hardened by climbing, feels fantastic. I relish the climbs. In the late afternoon, I start riding slower, and I start having thoughts about stopping. I finally find a place in the early evening, cook a simple meal, and rest and cool off. As it starts to get dark, I pitch my tent, crawl in, and fall asleep. T here are exciting times and difficult times as well.
Visiting strange or famous places and accomplishing goals are always exciting to me. I meet and talk with interesting people along the way, sometimes other traveling cyclists. Beautiful views, strong tail winds from nearby storms, encountering wild animals usually at my camping site , and traveling up and down hills also stir me up.
On the other hand, I may run into a rainy or hot spell, have to repair my bike or tire, encounter a hostile motorist, or just find myself in a bad mood. The problems are infrequent and are easily dealt with; the pleasures remain in my mind for years. A very basic introduction that explains how touring is different from other kinds of cycling and that explains some of the different kinds of touring.
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